Friday, August 21, 2009

Early Christianity in Ireland

I always associated Patrick with the spread of Christianity in Ireland, but as I travelled with my son and daughter-in-law, Ian and Juliette, in Ireland in July, I learned that he was not the first to bring the gospel to that land. The first recorded missionary there was Palladius, sent by Pope Celestine to be the bishop to the “Irish who believe in Christ”. He visited Ireland in 431, established a mission in Leinster, and set up a number of churches. Patrick arrived later and his mission was largely around Ulster and Connacht.

The first Monastic settlement that I visited was at Glendalough, which had been established by Kevin, who was born in Leinster in 498. He studied under Penroc in Cornwall, and after his ordination lived as a hermit at Glendalough until persuaded by the disciples he attracted to give up his solitary life. The stone church built in the 6th Century still stands intact apart from the timbers. Ian and me outside St. Kevin's church Kevin died around 618, but the monastery he founded flourished and continued in spite of many raids and destruction at the hands of the Vikings, the Normans, and finally the English in 1398 which left it in ruins although it continued to be a place of pilgrimage.

Kevin was a companion and confessor to Ciaran (Kieran) who founded Clonmacnoise in about 544 on the then cross-roads of Ireland where the north/south artery of communication, Shannon River, crossed the east/west route along the gravel ridges of the glacial eskers. This pivotal location contributed to the development of Clonmacnoise as a major religious, educational, trade, craftmanship and political centre of influence. He died of the plague 8 months later. The tiny church, Temple Ciaran (with Ian in the foreground) is reputed to be his burial place. Clonmacnoise was subject to attack and raids from Irish kings, Vikings, the Anglo-Normans, the English garrison at Athlone in 1552 which devastated the monastery, and finally by Oliver Cromwell and his troops in 1649. Repairs and restoration have been carried out in varying degrees since 1689. It continues to be a place of pilgrimage.

Communities have come and gone at these monastic sites. The individuals who lived, studied, prayed, worked, and spread the gospel from there are now unknown and forgotten. What remains is a testimony to their faithfulness to Christ. At the Glendalough site two ladies were praying and meditating at each of the ruins – clearly on a pilgrimage of their own. Rather than mourn the loss of what was, I choose to give the past a future by carrying with me the peace that pervaded the sites, and allowing the rhythm of study, prayer and work, that was practiced there, to shape my life.

No comments: